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When playing poker, even free online poker, it's important, fundamental even, to know as much about your opponent as possible.<br><br>Playing free poker online, micro stake cash games and freerolls, tends to bunch players into one of four categories. The quicker you are able to establish which player type you are against, the quicker you can adopt your tactics for that one type.<br><br>Almost all players fall into one of the following four groups; The Rock, the maniac, the calling station or ATM which is really a nickname I use as this option are a licence to print money, and lastly The Pro. This article will focus on the rock.<br><br>A rock is by definition reliable, dependable, steady, secure, and stable. Each one of these adjectives apply to the player known as the rock. They are very tight, even tighter out of position and also have a very narrow selection of cards they will play, on average they will play significantly less than 12% of hands.<br><br>These hands are obviously AA, KK, QQ, JJ and also include more or less any combination of face/Broadway cards, low pocket pairs and sometimes suited connectors constantly in place with a limp.<br><br>The rock is a very basic level 1 player who plays extremely honestly and can hardly ever bluff. A big bet from a rock almost always equals a big hand, the type of hand they'll be willing to shove with if pushed to. A rock will also seldom fight back against a three bet.<br><br>Therefore , after you have been at the table long enough to mark somebody as a rock (which shouldn't try long) you now have to play in a manner that'll extract the most value from him or her. The main thing to always bear in mind when playing a rock is that you don't need certainly to take long on your decisions; these guys will tell you what hand they have themselves.<br><br>Let's think about a rock away from the poker dining table.<br><br>If you desired to remove a big rock from your garden for example what would be the simplest way? You wouldn't try and select the whole thing up in one go as you could hurt your self, what you are more likely to do is break it up in to small pieces and shovel it right into a skip, which is exactly how we will take away the rock from the poker table, slowly. We will chip away at them with small raises, especially in position.<br><br>We will constantly be stealing their blinds with an enormous range, nearly every two cards. This works great in the later stages of a tournament when the blinds are bigger and you approach the bubble.<br><br>A rock isn't a great post flop player, they either hit or miss in their own mind set (level 1 remember). We should also be looking to take pot control lines, and flat calling in place with suited connectors provides us with great implied odds.<br><br>There are many things you shouldn't be doing against rocks and these demonstrably include playing big pots with weak hands, like one pair. Playing hands that are easily dominated against a rock's range can be a big problem.<br><br>In the event that you remember back again to the type of hands I referred to that are in a rock's range, then you will realise hands like AJ, A9, KJ, and Q10 are typical in bad shape. One more thing to consider is, firing double barrel bluffs don't work, this business don't play cabbage.<br><br>To recap, when playing against a marked rock (and take time before you mark someone into a particular grouping, three or four folds does not equate to someone being fully a rock, you will need to see a number of hands and watch how they react to their own blinds and when they have position) will have in the front of your brain I am playing basic micro stakes or free online poker. A raise means a decent hand, a check means I have something I will fold. Avoid big pots with rocks, use your shovel and chip away.
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This article will address the main question of whether to slowplay or be aggressive. Probably more than once you've thought: "Hey I have the nuts! I'll let villain hit his hand so I can get valued from him! "<br><br>It has happened me sometimes, but it is not always the best mindset to have. Allow me to start by defining what slowplay is:<br><br>Slow play is when you check or call a bet in order to "under-represent" your hand versus villain, so he may "over-play" his own hand.<br><br>Keep in mind that to slow play, you will need to have a near-unbeatable hand, such as a set in a super dry flop, or the nut straight in a non-flush non-paired board.<br><br>Also, you cannot slow play (well you cannot but will be unprofitable) against a new player who is passive. Player must really be considered a maniac to play, because otherwise you'll get checked behind.<br><br>Duc Volpe 2c 2d<br><br>3 more players enter the pot.<br><br>Flop: 2s, 7c, 8s<br><br>In this example we see that Duc_Volpe includes a set of deuces. It would be unprofitable for him to slow play here because it's a multi-way pot and it is a drawy board; it's bound to happen often a player here may hold here a flush draw and most likely chase it until the river.<br><br>If Duc_Volpe decides to slow play here a couple of things may happen:<br>A new player may complete the flush with a non 7 spade and we become 22: 77 underdogs<br><br><br>Everybody checks and  judi poker Online terpercaya Duc_Volpe loses here the proper way to play the hand is to go ahead bet or check-raise. I like check-raise here because it gets more income in the pot and because I don't like to bet facing everyone when I don't possess the initiative (that is: I did not raise preflop, but called instead).<br><br>HOWEVER....<br><br>One thing that occurs in micros with slow playing is the next: you aren't going to profit much from this strategy.<br><br>People in micros like to call a bet rather than make it themselves. And it sounds logical as they're weak players who can't stand to "risk money" once they do not have a hand yet, but are willing to pay up to the river to see if they complete their hand.<br><br>So in general, being aggressive is a much better approach to take, because even in flops as dry as they could possibly get, if people hold suited cards they could be willing to call to see if the turn brings them a draw, or even to see if their overcard hit.<br><br>So let's wrap it up very quickly:<br><br>In order to slow play, you need both a monster hand and an aggressive player. In addition, you need to be somewhat consistent with your actions because if you've never slow played any hand, it will look extremely suspicious even to fishes that do not take notice.<br><br>Slow playing might work if the condition above is fulfilled, otherwise, you're going to have a much easier time extracting value out of your monsters by playing the hand straight-forwardly. Keep in mind that people in micros want to call more than they prefer to bet!<br><br>All the best At The Tables!

Version vom 3. September 2020, 14:36 Uhr

This article will address the main question of whether to slowplay or be aggressive. Probably more than once you've thought: "Hey I have the nuts! I'll let villain hit his hand so I can get valued from him! "

It has happened me sometimes, but it is not always the best mindset to have. Allow me to start by defining what slowplay is:

Slow play is when you check or call a bet in order to "under-represent" your hand versus villain, so he may "over-play" his own hand.

Keep in mind that to slow play, you will need to have a near-unbeatable hand, such as a set in a super dry flop, or the nut straight in a non-flush non-paired board.

Also, you cannot slow play (well you cannot but will be unprofitable) against a new player who is passive. Player must really be considered a maniac to play, because otherwise you'll get checked behind.

Duc Volpe 2c 2d

3 more players enter the pot.

Flop: 2s, 7c, 8s

In this example we see that Duc_Volpe includes a set of deuces. It would be unprofitable for him to slow play here because it's a multi-way pot and it is a drawy board; it's bound to happen often a player here may hold here a flush draw and most likely chase it until the river.

If Duc_Volpe decides to slow play here a couple of things may happen:
A new player may complete the flush with a non 7 spade and we become 22: 77 underdogs


Everybody checks and judi poker Online terpercaya Duc_Volpe loses here the proper way to play the hand is to go ahead bet or check-raise. I like check-raise here because it gets more income in the pot and because I don't like to bet facing everyone when I don't possess the initiative (that is: I did not raise preflop, but called instead).

HOWEVER....

One thing that occurs in micros with slow playing is the next: you aren't going to profit much from this strategy.

People in micros like to call a bet rather than make it themselves. And it sounds logical as they're weak players who can't stand to "risk money" once they do not have a hand yet, but are willing to pay up to the river to see if they complete their hand.

So in general, being aggressive is a much better approach to take, because even in flops as dry as they could possibly get, if people hold suited cards they could be willing to call to see if the turn brings them a draw, or even to see if their overcard hit.

So let's wrap it up very quickly:

In order to slow play, you need both a monster hand and an aggressive player. In addition, you need to be somewhat consistent with your actions because if you've never slow played any hand, it will look extremely suspicious even to fishes that do not take notice.

Slow playing might work if the condition above is fulfilled, otherwise, you're going to have a much easier time extracting value out of your monsters by playing the hand straight-forwardly. Keep in mind that people in micros want to call more than they prefer to bet!

All the best At The Tables!